Sunday, November 23, 2014

I finally finished that shirt!

I'm shocked. I finished two of the items on this list and have another one cut out. That never happens! I usually get distracted by other shinier things and completely disregard all plans. I guess I'm kind of cheating because my Deer and Doe Bruyére shirt was half way done when I posted about it, but I'm not going to let tiny details like that derail my enthusiasm! 

I have two makes to show you today! Hopefully you don't mind the picture-heavy post, and also pictures of my butt. But I promise to end on a happy, non-butt related note!

So, details. I found this lavender plaid flannel at JoAnn and knew it needed to be a button down. The Bruyére pattern had just released and it was like a lightbulb moment. Who doesn't need a tunic-length flannel button down in the fall? You can kind of see in this picture my one major issue with this shirt: the button band. Due to the way the band is constructed there are 3 layers of flannel in each button band! It's incredibly thick (and hard to push buttons through, to be honest) and refuses to lay flat! It's most obvious around the curves above and below my bust and it drives me nuts! Not enough to stop me from wearing it, but I almost want to add another button between all of my buttons to minimize the gaping. Almost.

I had originally planned on taking pictures outside this morning, but when I woke up it was raining (after we had snow for two days last weekend, wtf South Dakota?) and that put the kibosh on that. So I had to remove the pile of UFOs that usually sit in this corner of my sewing space. That's dedication, I tell ya. But really, that's all the cleaning up I could be bothered to do so most of my sewing space had to be cropped out of these photos!

As with all the Deer and Doe patterns I've tried so far, this one pretty much fit right out of the envelope. I didn't have to alter any of the darts which is a big plus! Since I didn't make a muslin, it's obviously not perfect. I would definitely add about 1/2" to the sleeves next time as they're bordering on too short for me. Also, I think I need to lower the waistband about 1" to fit my natural waist. I would also maybe shorten the length an inch or two next time. I am not 100% convinced that the proportions right now are the most flattering on me.

I'm really happy with the stripe matching, though my waistband is a little wonky at the side seams. Note to everyone considering making this in plaid flannel: bias cut plaid will stretch out like crazy when you think about touching it. So plan accordingly! Anyways, I definitely plan on making another one of these tops in chambray for the spring. Overall, I would definitely recommend this pattern (especially if you are X-shaped).

The second half of this outfit are black ponte Ooh La Leggings by Papercut. Can we just talk about how freaking much I love ponte? Normally I'm a "no polyester near anywhere that sweats" kind of lady because, well, smells. But ponte is the one fabric I will make an exception for. It is the best fabric for leggings if you have lumps and bumps and dimples in your legs that you are self conscious about like I am. Also, it's the only knit fabric I will let come anywhere near my hips. I have strangely shaped hips (see pictures) and thin knits are just... not an okay thing. Prepare for borderline embarrassing pictures of me in skin tight clothing!

I love these leggings, even if I'm not thrilled by pictures of me wearing basically only them. The waist is definitely high enough for me. It's supposed to be even a little higher than in these photos, but I sewed my waistband elastic on like an idiot and had to fold it over one extra time. So if you're looking for high-waisted leggings, look here! They are also incredibly long, which is a major plus for me. I'm 5'10" and didn't add any length! I graded from a M to a L on the yoke and cut large for all the bottom pieces. 

If I were really ambitious I might alter the side yokes so that they follow the actual curve of my hips but that would be a lot of work. Also, this is a good picture for illustrating why I have such trouble finding RTW jeans/bottoms. I have a massive "hip dip." I promise the underwear that I'm wearing is not so tight that it's giving me a muffin-top-to-end-all-muffin-tops. It's just how my iliac crests are shaped, okay? It's definitely something I've been very self-conscious about my whole life, but I'm coming to accept my weird anatomy. Especially after taking anatomy this summer and learning how incredibly different everyone is structured.

A pair of jeans is high on my to-do list. I want a pair that doesn't have a million inches of negative ease but still fits my top and bottom curve. My hips deserve to breathe, but I don't want the dip area to be drowing in excess denim. I fully expect to have to make several muslins, but in the end it will be worth it!

I do really like the seaming on these, except for at my butt. I don't think it's flattering to have a seam that comes right across my lower butt and it's kind of weird to sit on. But in all other areas I think the seam lines keep the leggings from being too boring. Despite looking complicated, they actually come together very quickly on a serger. Maybe 1.5 hours from cutting to finish? I did end up sewing the tucks on the front and back legs, but I don't think I would do this again. It's just not really my cup of tea and I've already ripped the stitching pulling the leggings on.

I'll leave you with a picture of Clyde so my butt isn't the last thing you remember from this post. It was very rainy and gross outside when we woke up this morning, and he just wanted to cuddle under the covers with me. He's really into my new flannel sheets! Isn't he the cutest?